Acid peels have been introduced to skincare tens of years ago and have never disappointed ever since. Without exception, they provide miscellaneous benefits to all skin types what not so many ingredients can truly pull off. What exactly do they do and how to use them correctly? This article will give you all the answers.
How are acid peels categorized?
Depending on the skin layer that they directly affect, chemical peelings can be superficial, medium depth and deep with the last kind not really being used in modern dermatology because of its invasiveness. Superficial peels, embracing among others alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are very commonly used in widely accessible skincare products as they simultaneously are the least potentially irritant to the skin – they directly influence just the epidermis, or the outermost layer of the skin. Medium depth peels, on the other hand, can go as far as to the papillary dermis which is located just below the epidermis, meaning that they are more invasive and hence require a notably longer regeneration period. Among them you can find Jessner peel and modified Jessner peel.
What do superficial peels do?
Because of their availability, let’s start with the superficial peels. First of all, they are keratolytic, or in other words they remove the keratin layer of superficial dead skin cells from the top of the epidermis. This way, they bring the underlying, brighter complexion to the surface what instantly disposes of skin dullness. Via the same pathway they also prevent comedone formation as superficial dead skin cells and other forms of skin debris clog the pores and substantially contribute to the formation of blackheads and whiteheads. Simultaneously, they stimulate the production of new epidermal cells in the basal layer of the epidermis what promotes healthy epidermal growth and differentiation. Long-term, the skin becomes smoother, softer and brighter. Moreover, depending on their individual properties, they can stimulate collagen production in the underlying dermis, boost hyaluronic acid levels in both dermis and epidermis (hence ultimately increase the skin’s hydration level), soothe inflammation as well as prevent hyperpigmentation by evenly distributing melanin and inhibiting melanogenesis – the skin pigment synthesis.
What do medium depth peels do?
As mentioned previously, medium depth peels remove not only the epidermis, but also the upper part of the underlying dermis, or the papillary dermis. Consequently, they can be used in the more severe skin conditions, nonetheless they simultaneously require more carefuleness and a longer post-treatment regeneration period.
How do AHAs differ from BHAa?
Many see AHA and BHA names on the product bottles, not knowing the difference between these two while it is pretty simple. It lies in their solubility – AHAs are water-soluble and BHAs are lipid-soluble. It means that they act in two various compartments of the skin layers (water phase and lipid phase respectively) and are absorbed differently from the skin surface. Additionally, some of AHAs and BHAs have unique, distinctive features: for instance, alpha hydroxy acid lactic acid is known to have moisturizing properties and positively influence the skin’s bacterial microflora while beta hydroxy acid salicylic acid is a potent skin whitening and lightening agent as well as soothes inflammation. Whilst from the BHA group it is mostly salicylic acid that is commonly used in skincare, among frequently added AHAs you can also find glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid or mandelic acid.
What effects do acid peels provide?
What can be seen instantly after the first application of an acid peel is visibly enhanced skin brightness and smoothness. It is due to the removal of the superficial dead skin cells and other forms of skin debris which make the skin appear greyer and duller. With time, the overall wellbeing of the skin increases and other benefits come to light:
- There are notably less comedones or blackheads and whiteheads which can later normally progress to inflammatory acne lesions.
- The skin texture is evened out, smoother and visibly healthier.
- The appearance of scars, including acne scars, is substantially diminished.
- Hyperpigmentation spots are reduced.
- The visible signs of skin aging are both diminished and prevented from forming.
- The skin’s hydration level is increased.
- The skin is more resilient.
- The skin becomes firmer as the collagen production is stimulated.
- The skin appears healthier and soothed as inflammation is reduced.
As you can see it yourself… acid peels really overdo themselves and are great for every skin type.
Why “acid” peels and not the “mechanical” peels?
The skin of the face is built completely differently than the skin of the body – the latter is thicker, less prone to irritation and in some areas like the soles of the feet and the hands it has an additional skin layer named stratum lucidum. Mechanical scrubs do no harm there, contrarily to the former. On the skin of the face mechanical peels cause so-called micro-injuries which gradually disrupt the wellbeing of the skin and weaken it. Moreover, if somebody struggles with acne or sensitive skin, mechanical peels effortlessly spread the infection and inflammation to other parts of the face – nobody wants that. For these reasons, acid peels definitively win – they are both gentler and more effective.
How to apply acid peels?
There are certain rules when applying acid peels onthe skin. Firstly, apply them only in the evening so that your skin has time to regenerate during the night. Theoretically, acid peels can also make the skin more sensitive to the sun. When it comes to your routine’s order, apply your peel on a freshly cleansed, dry skin and follow with a toner. Do that once or maximally twice a week not to overirritate the skin and ensure the best results.
Can I increase the effectiveness of acid peels?
Yes, it is very much possible, yet requires increased carefulness. There exist specially formulated solutions to use before the application of the peel which boost the peel’s absorption so that it is more effective. MCCM Medical Cosmetics offers MCCM Pre-Treatment Solution – a carefully designed mixture of Alcohol and Salicylic Acid to maximize the skin’s absorption capacity before a peel.
Can I decrease skin irritability after applying an acid peel?
Besides following the peel with your regular skincare routine and ending it with a soothing moisturizer, you can additionally minimize the skin irritability after a peel with a neutralizing spray. MCCM Neutralizing Spray contains Sodium Bicarbonate which efficiently neutralizes the acid.
What are the best acid peels for my skin type?
- ANTI-AGING PEEL
While most of the acids are of anti-aging properties, there exist some which are extraordinarily anti-oxidant hence exceed the others. Among them you can find Pyruvic and Phytic Acids which rejuvenate the skin like no other. There are both available in the MCMM Antiaging Peel.
- SKIN WHITENING PEEL
If you are trying to get rid of hyperpigmentation of any origin including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, you should look for peels with the maximized concetration of whitening and lightening ingredients. MCCM Whitening Peel combines Salicylic Acid, Kojic Acid, Lactic Acid and Citric Acid as well as is enriched with Arbutin.
- PEEL FOR DRY SKIN
If you have dry skin, you should opt for some of the most delicate, yet still effective acids like Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, that also have a proven hydrating effect. You can find them in MCCM Glycolic Peel and MCCM Lactic Peel.
- PEEL FOR ACNE
Acne vulgaris is an inflammatory skin disease, meaning that besides the keratolytic action, an ideal peel should also successfully calm inflammation. Salicylic Acid exceeds at that. It is highly concentrated in MCCM Salicylic Peel.
- PEEL FOR MATURE SKIN
Mandelic acid has been shown to be exceptionally effective when it comes to rejuvenating the mature skin and alleviating the signs of aging, especially hyperpigmentation spots. It confirmedly gives the skin a more youthful, luminous appearance. MCCM Mandelic Peel provides it in an appropriate concentration.
- PEEL FOR BLACKHEADS AND WHITEHEADS
Blackheads and whiteheads appear due to the superficial accumulation of skin debris in the philosebaceous units. Their treatment requires an excellent keratolytic agent, out of which Azelaic Acid has been proven superbly effective. Besides the mentioned activity, it is also actively anti-bacterial and prevents hyperpigmentation. You can find it in MCCM Azelaic Peel.
- SKIN LIFTING PEEL
Lactic acid is known to increase the skin’s hydration level and positively affect the skin’s bacterial microbiota, what visibly improves the skin’s wellbeing as well as make it softer and plumper. In MCCM Lifting Peel it has been combined with DMAE, a special ingredient that confirmedly increases the skin’s firmness for an even better natural lifting effect.
Browse through the whole selection of acid peels at our store to find the most suitable for your needs. Quality Beauty Store is official distributor of MCCM Medical Cosmetics in the United Kingdom. Should you have any specific questions regarding the product use or stocking the goods at your store do not hesitate to directly contact our friendly team of experts. All orders placed before 3PM will be dispatched the same working day with FREE next day delivery service.